It is far too often I find titles and positions in the food industry forcing chefs to pigeon hole themselves. Many think a given definition of position also gives a set list of ingredients in which to chose from, and a set stack of techniques from which to draw. Why is this? What makes a Chef a chef?

Is a chef one who produces course after course of umami rich mouth watering food only to toss the end of the game to the pastry chef? Why would she or he even need to think of the end of the meal, it's only the last thing the guest remembers. Pastry chefs are certainly the ones who move at a more methodical pace and produce desserts... right? Sometimes I find these ideals that we ourselves place upon our profession so frustrating. Most of us spend 14 hours under artificial lighting doing the same thing over and over, and many refuse to see a different prospective. Maybe it is the fear of change, or the idea of not following the rules or maybe it's not what the guest wants. Whatever our reason for staying on one side of line, it makes me realize one thing, Tunnel vision sucks.

I am not pushing for some drastic and daring collision of sweet and savory. Just an appreciation for the what other chefs (no matter pastry or savory) are doing every day. I have always thought that the savory side could benefit from the forethought that goes into a pastry menu. In the same sense most of us pastry chefs would do well to taste more often and be spontaneous every once in a while.

Random note… I sat down to type about mushrooms, and "Happy In the Kitchen" was next to the computer. A great example of an all encompassing culinary mind, and personal culinary hero, Michel Richard.

Pot

There is a unique driving force behind many of America's great kitchens. It isn't passion or obsession. It's not based on art or craft, and it has nothing to do with our grandmothers standing in front of a stove on thanksgiving. It has everything to do with coffee.

Gallon after gallon of this caffeinated life giving elixir is consumed by cooks and chefs to ensure that the first few hours of a 14 hour day are productive, and the last few hours of the day stay productive. I'm not talking the "cup of joe" when we get to work, it's nothing for a cook to consume a pot by themselves... in the first half of their day. I will gladly and proudly admit to an addiction to this energy crutch, and will continue to support it. Now don't tell me its not good for me. Without it most people wouldn't have any thing to do on a Saturday night.

Coffee, mmm......

To the Point

This site is usually a way for me to spill on about some deep connection that I have with the food that I make, or an inspirational point from which an idea was spawned. This post will not be that, it will be utilitarian and to the point. I will be posting on the past two menus that we have done "Indian Summer" and "Autumn Sketchbook". I will give some brief but descriptive dialog on each dish. I will then go have a glass of wine with my wife, and watch my cat do stupid things with a twist tie. Every now and then we should all do the same.

Autumn Sketchbook

Pre-dessert: Goat Yogurt Panna Cotta, Caramelized Holmquist Hazelnuts, Elephant Heart Plum.

This dessert was drawn from the plum and how damn pretty the puree was. Sometimes when someone goes to the trouble of growing something well, I feel it best to just present it with humility.

Dessert: Roasted Eggplant and Prune Cake, Bartlett Pear Sorbet, Pear Fritter, Rosemary Caramel Sauce

Playing with temperatures is something we as pastry chefs love to do, and that's exactly what I did here. Warm cake and fritter with frosty sorbet. The eggplant is an iconic summer ingredient and paired up with the dried plum, I thought it fit the idea of an Indian Summer quite nicely.

Autumn Sketchbook

Pre-Dessert: "Green Apple & Garden Sorrel" Sorbet, Foam, Salad, Chip, with a touch of Marigold

Bold, bright, straight forward, easy to understand, and dynamic. My favorite characteristics rolled into one. Once asked to describe my style of desserts I responded, "Simplicity through complexity". This dessert might finally back that up.

Dessert: Roasted and Glazed Sugar Pie Pumpkin, Butter Fried Cedar Bough Ice Cream, Butterscotch Pudding, Prosciutto Chips, and Virgin Pumpkin Oil

Frying cedar boughs in butter to release their aroma is something I learned while cooking salmon while I was camping. It seemed to tone down the resin and release a floral aroma. The pumpkins were from our farm and perfect. I am so damn tired of pumpkin tasting like clove, ginger, and cinnamon. So we went a different route, roasting, chilling, portioning, and glazing with brown sugar and butter to order (although the one in the picture is caramelised with a blow torch, we later changed it to glazing in a pan). I ate a couple pieces of pumpkin each night, and yes nostalgia was there.

I promise to be more indepth with the next menu, we are making two desserts based on mushroom for Christ sake.